Coral is discovered in still, clear water between 25 and 1000 feet deep. The intensity and quality of coral color increases with depth, but coral is very sensitive and can breed only in water temperatures between 13 and 16 degrees Celsius. These ideal conditions are met in only several places: The best coral is found in the waters of southern Ireland, the Bay of Biscay to Madeira, in the Canaries and the Cape de Verde Islands, in the Mediterranean, the Red Sea, Mauritius, the Malay Archipelago, and in Japanese waters.

Italy is considered the center of coral jewelry creation, and Torre del Greco, near Naples, is where the best coral jewelry in Italy is made. Larger pieces are often fashioned into stunning umbrella handles or walking sticks, while smaller pieces are made into round or egg-shaped beads that are used in necklaces, rosaries and bracelets. Coral is also the classic material for carved cameos but also makes beautiful earrings, brooches, pendants, rings, cuff links, tie bars, belt buckles, inlaid jewelry boxes and pillboxes. A great deal of coral is exported to India and China, where it is used in religious rituals.

In America, the native Navajo and the Zuni silversmiths have been the heaviest users of coral jewelry. The Zunis combined it with black jet, though it also contrasts magnificently with turquoise. The San Domingo Indians also worked coral into wampum-style beads.