Yeah yeah...an unlikely title...what's he going to come up with this time? Yawn yawn.

Okay. Here's the story...here's the problem...and here's the solution. This all has to do, once again--I've skirted this topic before--with the making of man made diamonds. And here's the story. In theory, it should be simple. Diamonds are made from carbon...and so is almost everything else on this earth, including plastics, wood, and even us. Take out the water, squish a human being with enough heat and pressure, and, theoretically at least, you should get a diamond. So, next time any of you start to think your fellow human may be a bit worthless...think again.

Now...here's the problem. Pressure! At the turn of the century, there wasn't a lab around that could achieve a continuous pressure of over three thousand atmospheres. If you want to know what this means... listen. Go down to the deepest depths of our deepest oceans, and you'll only reach pressures totally a tad over one thousand atmospheres. And three thousand atmospheres doesn't begin to cut it for creating a diamond. It turns out that fifty thousand atmospheres or more is what you need to do the trick. Impressed?

In 1905 a man called Percy Bridgeman was able to create a machine that could generate seven thousand atmospheres (50 tons of pressure per square inch). By 1910 he had things going up to twenty thousand atmospheres. He could now get water to become ice at room temperature. Okay...it wasn't a diamond yet...but still...ice without a freezer. Move over G.E.

1930 comes around and Percy's got his equipment cooking in the range of four hundred thousand atmospheres (that's nearly 3000 tons per inch). More than enough pressure...but no dice...um...make that diamonds.

And now...the solution. It will only work if you can sustain a temperature level of 1000 degrees centigrade while keeping up the pressure of over fifty thousand atmospheres. Percy never made it, though he did get a Nobel Prize in physics for his achievements. So...we're off to Sweden. Let me introduce you all to a Mr. Baltzar von Platen. He's considered a genius and an eccentic...all at the same time. But you can't touch him for brilliance in a laboratory. He designs a machine that produces over sixty thousand atmospheres...and sets the pace for those that follow him...re: a scientist by the name of Erik Lundblad. On February 16, 1953, Erik makes history. He subjects graphite to a pressure of 83,000 atmospheres for a full hour...and creates the first synthetic diamond. But it's not announced...and so the race continues...and we end up back in America...with a company called General Electric. The date is now December 8, 1954. Wednesday evening. Herb Strong, a research scientist for G.E., loads his machine with black carbon powder, raises the pressure to fifty thousand atmospheres and the temperature to 1250 degrees centigrade...lets the stuff cook for 16 hours...and makes two small diamonds. December 16, 1954, another scientist does it again. His name is Tracy Hall.

Since then man made diamonds have become almost commonplace accomplishments. Today, production exceeds over one hundred tons per year. But it's all industrial stuff folks...not to worry.
Oh yeah...one more thing. The Peanut Butter. Where does that come in? I'll tell you. As an experiment, a scientist named Robert Wentorf Jr. took a spoonful of the stuff and put it into the machine and presto... the chef's delight...diamond crystals. And why not? Peanut Butter is carbon too you know. As is plastic, and tar, and wood, and us.

There is more than one theory as to how and when diamonds were created. We'll use one.

Let's go back back...to the beginnings of time...when the earth was young. We're talking about 70 million to 150 million years ago. It was the beginning of the continental drift...that time in history when the earth began to break up, and Africa and South America separated, and the Atlantic Ocean was formed. It was then, during the creation of the Atlantic Ocean, that violent volcanic activity created enough heat and pressure to create diamonds. How much heat and pressure? Well, we're talking about 7000kg/cm2 and 3,630 degrees Fahrenheit. (2000 degrees Centigrade) The only place on this planet of ours where that kind of heat and pressure can be achieved is roughly 120 miles deep into the earth. Sometimes, very rarely, a heavy meteorite hits the planet with enough heat and pressure to create diamonds. But this is a very rare occurrence. As the earth changed and shifted, diamonds slowly began to find their way to the surface...a great deal of the time via the eruptions of volcanoes. The name of the rock formed by these volcanoes is called Kimberlite...and much of it is found in South Africa...today's heart of the diamond producing mines of the world.

We now shoot forward through the mists of time. No one knows exactly when man discovered diamonds. What we do know, however, is that from the beginnings of ancient times, when man first discovered diamonds, to the middle of the eighteenth century, India was the world's only supplier. There was a king in India around the years 320 to 298 B.C. His name was Chandragupa. It was during his reign that documentation was revealed that proved that not only were diamonds known in the fourth century B.C., but they were also used as commodities for trade. It was sometime in the eighteenth century, Brazil entered the arena and became a major force in the production of diamonds.

Diamonds are mentioned in the times of Alexander the Great. They appear in the stories of the Thousand and One Nights with Sinbad the Sailor, and later, in the stories written about Marco Polo.
Today, the Diamond Syndicates of South Africa control world diamond production.

1853...California. The first diamond is discovered in the Cherokee district of Butte County. California deposits are likened to the diamantiferous gravel of Brazil. More diamonds are found, in five more counties: Amador, Butte, El Dorado, Nevada, and Trinity. It ain't only gold what's in them thar hills.

1869...Idaho. Some small diamonds have been found in the placer diggings of Idaho. They're found under the same conditions as those found in California ...picked up by gold miners. A stir is created in the local papers. References are made as the abundant yield of Idaho diamonds. Out of curiosity, how many of you out there thought Idaho was only potato country?

1883...Montana. An octahedral diamond is found at a placer claim at Nelson Hill, near Deer Lodge County, Montana. It's brought to New York, submitted to a diamond expert, and pronounced real.

1884...Wisconsin. A Milwaukee jeweler buys a stone from a lady for $1.00. He tells her it's a topaz. It's said it was found while digging a well on her husband's property. Turns out it's a diamond, the first ever found in Wisconsin, and is therefore valued at quite a high price. Did this jeweler take the lady for a ride? I don't know. Once word got out, she sold her property at an inflated rate, so she made out okay.

1888...Cincinnati. A laborer is attending to a boulder-crushing machine and he finds a diamond weighing over 80 carats. A theory floats around that the stone might be one lost by a Mrs. Clark in 1806. Who know? Who cares? 80 carats! It's the lottery of 1888. Only thing is...they don't say whether it was a rough or cut stone. I think we're talking cut. But don't go rushing off to Ohio yet with your mining tools. Wait till I get some more info. I'll be sending you all a card...from Ohio, of course. :)

1888 again...Kentucky. There's an account of a diamond coming out of Russell County. It weighs a little over 0.43 carats. It's an octahedron. It's lustrous, nearly white, with a tinge of yellow. It was found in a gravelly field on top of a hill. A theory is advanced. Diamonds may have been formed in the peridotite of Kentucky. Ahh...for the sweet smell of blue grass country.

Arizona...don't know the year. A man called J.D. Yerrington of New York city owns a brown diamond. It weighs 1 carat. When cut, it will yield a 1/2 carat gem. It was found near Philadelphos, Arizona.

The time...many years ago. Sorry, that's the closest I can get. Koko Creek, in Eastern Tennessee...at the headquarters of the Tellico River. We're on the bench lands of the Smokey or Unaka Mountains. Three diamond crystals are found. This points to an extension of the diamond-belt of North Carolina.

There's more. It seems almost endless. There are diamonds found in Georgia--in Bangor, Maine--in North Carolina. The largest diamond ever found in America is supposed to be the Dewey Diamond, found in Manchester, Virginia, in 1855...found by a laborer while paving a street near Richmond. It's original weight was 23 3/4 carats. After cutting...11 11/16 carats. It's not very valuable. It's off color...it's imperfect. But so what? Corn and hay and beef and potatoes, and alfalfa and tobacco and chickens ain't our only resources folks. No sirree! There's diamonds out there...just for the pickin'.

Here is one theory: Ancients used to believe gem stones were solidified drops of divine essence, embedded in rocks when the world was created. Diamonds were sacred to the Mother of the gods because they “ruled” all other stones by their superior hardness. Diamonds were sacred to the Supreme Goddess and were taken over by the cult of the Virgin. Because of this association with virginity, they came to be considered appropriate betrothal gifts.

Weiss closed its doors in 1971. So when you buy real Weiss jewelry, you know you are adding to your vintage costume jewelry collection--right? Beware of contemporary fakes that have been flooding the market for the past year or so. You can find fakes very easily on eBay. Just type "Weiss" in the search engine. You will find thousands of listings, too many listings for the fairly scarce, signed vintage jewels. Remember, Weiss produced a great deal of unsigned jewelry.

Many dealers selling items on eBay out of their homes are essentially honest and just can't tell the difference.

Other dealers know they're selling contemporary fakes. They sell them in auction after auction with the same pieces listed over and over. Some even sell multiple pieces in large lots. Most do not show images of the backs of the jewelry, but that doesn't always protect new collectors. When they first came onto the market, I saw these jewels sell for $60 to $100. I accidentally ended up buying one in a larger assortment of jewelry. Not knowing what else to do with it, I sold it on eBay as "Fake Weiss." Hope it educated a few prospective Weiss buyers!

After investigation, I found that there are several dealers on eBay routinely selling the fakes. These folks have been reported to eBay to no avail, mainly because those who moniter eBay auctions often can't tell a fake from a real piece. It might not even be illegal to sell it, as long as the dealer does not list in the vintage and antique categories. But listing any new jewelry as "Weiss" is misleading.

The counterfeit jewelry is manufactured by a Rhode Island plant. They have now branched off into making earrings to go with the "Weiss" jewels, and are making fake Eisenburg and Lisner as well.

This contemporary "Weiss" jewelry is generally pretty and colorful, but cheaply made. Its okay to buy a fake Weiss as long as you know what it is and pay accordingly--about $10. It's too bad the manufacturers don't just leave their jewels unsigned or sign their own names.

In fact, some buyers are catching on to the deception, due to the fact that the market is now flooded with fakes. This is gradually driving the prices down; but still, these sellers make the bank on holiday & other gift-giving times. There are even buyers who know it's fake and collect it. The jewelry is pretty! But it just is not vintage.

1. There are several ways to spot fakes, but the easiest is to look at the backs. Most of them have the textured backs of inexpensive contemporary jewelry.

Real Weiss


Fake Weiss

Back View


Back View

Notice the difference between the general construction and the backs of each piece. The vintage designer jewel has a smooth rhodium plated back, which is actually pretty. The fake has a contemporary finish--highly textured with an attempt at an "antique" or oxidized look which actually look like plops of badly mixed paint allowed to dry on the back of the setting.

Real Weiss


Fake Weiss

Back View


Back View

For More Examples Click Here:

2. If you are still unsure, check out the dealer. First, ask the dealer if the jewel is vintage or contemporary. Many are honest. Also, check out the number of Weiss items the seller is offering. If almost all their stock is "Weiss," all the "Weiss" is colorful and in pristine condition, or if they list more than one identical piece or list large lots of only Weiss jewelry, go elsewhere.

One of many auctions of fake Weiss Christmas tree collections:


3. Go to reputable dealers and antique jewelry fairs to look at and handle real Weiss jewelry. That will give you knowledge beyond the scope of this article, and be much more helpful in teaching you to not only spot fakes, but to date jewelry and learn jewelry construction as well.

To wear and enjoy a beautiful piece of antique and vintage jewelry with a history behind can be a wonderful, exhilarating experience. For many, it is a lovingly addicting hobby. The more you collect, the more you want to collect! It's that exciting! But when buying these jewels of yesterday, how can one be certain that what they are buying is truly authentic and not relatively new and/or of it's claimed value? It's always advisable to buy from reputable dealers who guarantee their items plus learning what to look for in a piece. Attend Antique & Collectable Shows, browse Antique Shops and read lots of books to familiarize yourself with period styles and their findings.

Antique CELLULOID Brooch Signed JAPAN Rose, Daffodil & Mum Flowers c.1930's!When looking at a piece, examine it carefully both front and back. A genuinely old piece will have all the ingredients to confirm its authenticity. Many jewelry styles do tend to overlap so always check the entire piece for clues. Is the piece signed, hallmarked? Surprisingly enough a lot of antique jewelry was marked in the most unusual of places so check along the edges, inside of the bale, the pin stem and even on the back of the pin stem! You'll be amazed at what you could find and where you will find it. Suddenly a piece of jewelry that you thought was newer or made of silver plate or gold plate now may be seen in a different light as genuine antique silver or gold and have a lot of value!

Antique CELLULOID Brooch - BackA lot of old jewelry such as Victorian Jewelry was not marked. So now what? A Victorian brooch with a long pin stem extending outward is a good indication that it's early Victorian while a shorter one is of a later date. The "C" clasp is another indication that the piece is old. Remember that there are always exceptions to the rules since the "C" clasp was also used later on in Europe so take every detail into account to come to your full conclusion. Look at the hinge and the clasp of a brooch, bracelet, necklace, etc. Does it look like a clasp used today or does it seem a bit different to you? Compare new pieces to old pieces. Does the jewelry have a brass spring ring clasp from the 1930s or a shiny gold plate clasp? Are the findings on a piece consistent with the design of that era? Those small differences could answer your questions and drastically influence the value of a piece. The tube hinge was generally used until the 1890s where the safety catch clasp became popular in the Art Deco 1920s period. Over the years, the appearance of the safety catch clasp has changed so it's good to recognize the old from the new. Many clasps on old jewelry such as pins broke in time so replacement ones were soldered onto the back. All better Jewelry is soldered at some place but if the piece has raised pads soldered to the back of the Brooch where the clasp is attached then it is a replacement clasp.

Another good clue to dating a piece and determining the value of Antique and Vintage Jewelry is to look at the metal content where there might be some underneath wear, usually in back where it would rub against the clothing. Genuine Gold and Silver, even if it has wear, will not show a base metal underneath since it continues all the way through. Many costume pieces from the nineteenth century and into the Art Deco period were made of gold and/or silver over base metals such as gold over brass, silver over brass, silver over copper, gold over copper, etc. That's one way of knowing the piece is at least 60 years old and more. During the war years of the 1940s there was a shortage of base metals where it affected the jewelry industry so sterling silver was substituted. If you see a marking such as "1/20 12K on Sterling" then 1/5 of the piece is 12K gold and is likely to be from 1942 to 1945. Vintage Bakelite which is a Polymeric Plastic invented by Leo Hendrik Baekeland in 1907, became popular in jewelry design during the hardships of World War II also. There are several tests in determining Authentic Antique and Vintage Bakelite Jewelry using Formula 409, Hot Water, Simichrome Polish and a Q-Tip. Still some Bakelite such as Black Bakelite may not test positive. Since Bakelite is either cast or molded it would not have a seam line anywhere and the workmanship should look hand carved and not be crudely executed as if a stamp was used. On Vintage Bakelite brooches, the clasp would be embedded into the piece.

Fine Jewelry containing Diamonds or Precious Stones such as Rubies, Emeralds and Sapphires are either bezel-set, inset or set with prongs and will always have open-backs for maximum brightness. Air bubbles seen in stones is a clue right off that the piece is glass. Marcasites which were substituted for diamonds as early as the 1700s, regained it's popularity in the 1920s and 1930s. A higher valued marcasite piece would have better workmanship where each marcasite would be set with tiny prongs or beads versus glued in ones and because of this the stones will stay in place longer. This is also true for Rhinestones in Vintage Costume Jewelry where prong set ones are valued higher than glued in ones.

If you have the time, you can begin with reading several books on vintage costume jewelry as well as search the Internet, browsing to get a feel for your items. The library will have some books and be sure to check the library's reference section.

All things considered, prices vary due to geographical location, condition, fashion and color trends, designer signatures, and rarity. When you are ready, you can box your lot and head to a local antique dealer or antique mall.

You can also contact an online dealer. Visit their website, read the "About us" section and any testimonials, to get a feel for the person.

Contact the dealer, and inquire if they are interested in buying your items. You will need to show your pieces to the dealer. This can be done a few ways:

1. Scan the pieces front and back
2. Take clear, well-lit digital camera close-ups front and back
3. Send the lot for dealer inspection or
4. Take clear close-up photos with a 35-mm camera and send the photos or a CD with the images. Again, front and back, well-lit images shot up-close.

What the dealer is looking for is condition of the piece including plating, prongs, and rhinestone clarity. Be sure the images show these things. It is best to shoot the pieces on a lighter colored fabric- light gray works well.

Inform the dealer of any signatures or markings on the backs of the pieces. You will probably need to view your pieces under a bright light with a loupe. State your asking price. A vague, "I do not know what it is worth, what will you give me", is not recommended.

If you have absolutely no idea what the value is, it is fine to ask for their best price but, then, it is not recommended to counter with an amount after they gave you their "best price". Rather, you could ask what their best price is, and that you would like to get at least "X" amount. If you have contacted several dealers, take the best offer.

Another option to sell your vintage jewelry is consignment. Many dealers offer consignment. You can request information regarding their terms. Typically, you get more money for the items that sell on consignment. This route can take longer, as you wait for the sale.

Following these tips should help get you the best price for your vintage costume jewelry.

Before you can find out what a piece of vintage jewelry is worth, you need to find out what it is. This can be as simple as turning it over and finding a maker's mark or complicated as in "hours of research". First thing first: Examine your jewelry for a maker's mark. Look on the back or on the clasp. Thoroughly examine every inch of the piece. If you see a maker's mark, start your research! Not finding a maker's mark doesn't mean it's not valuable, on the contrary; many fine pieces of jewelry were never marked. It does mean you will need to put in a little more effort in research.

If you received your vintage jewelry from a family member, ask them about its history. Did your grandfather give it to your grandmother right before he went off to war? Was it handed down from her mother? Answers to these questions will give you a general idea of how old it is. Look at the style of the piece. Although many styles come back into fashion after a time, it is still possible to ID an older piece by the style and material.

Does it appear to have gemstones? Determine if they are real gemstones. You will need some sort of strong magnifying glass or ideally, a jeweler's loupe. A loupe is a small magnifying glass in various degrees of magnification. A 10X loupe should be all you need and they are relatively inexpensive. Craft and hobby stores usually sell them.

Go to a well-lighted place and look at the stone through the loupe. Do you see tiny bubbles in the stone? Tiny air bubbles mean it is made from glass or plastic. It's not a real gemstone. Is it open backed? Can you see the back of the stone when you turn the piece over? Does the back of the stone look shiny as in gold or silver colored foil? These are foil back rhinestones and not real gems. Foil was often added to reflect the light and create a better sparkle. Most real gems contain some type of natural inclusion. Unless you are familiar with gems and diamonds, your best bet is to take it to a jeweler or appraiser if you think it is real.

Look at the construction of the piece. This can be extremely helpful in dating a piece! Look at the clasp or pin. Are the stones individually riveted on? Is the clasp rather ornate? Does it have a layered look? What type of style is it? Does it remind you of old black and white movies? Perhaps Bette Davis or Katherine Hepburn? Does it look Victorian?

By now, you should have a general idea of age and you are ready to start your research in earnest!


Research
Head for your local library or heat up an Internet search engine! I can spend hours in my local library poring over books and books and more books. There are plenty of good vintage jewelry reference books. Stop by your library or bookstore and check them out before buying. No sense in buying a book you will hardly use! If you choose the library, bring your jewelry with you. You can also make copies of any pages you wish to take or check out the book and bring it home. As with other research, libraries are extremely helpful. Searching on the Internet is also a quick and easy way to get fast information. Some search terms to try are:

Some search terms to try are:

* maker's mark
* vintage jewelry
* the name of the maker's mark you found on your piece
* the decade i.e. "1930's jewelry"
* antique jewelry
* collectible costume jewelry

This will give you hours of research and hundreds of pages to sort. Look at anything relevant, look for similar pieces or styles. Visit online vintage jewelry shops. Look for forums where you may be able to post a picture and ask for identification help.

If you love to research like I do, this is right up your alley! It can take hours, days sometimes weeks to find out about a certain piece. As you go, you will gain more knowledge about old vintage jewelry and hopefully you will be as enchanted as many other collectors and dealers. It's a fascinating world of "junky jewelry"!