There is a new jewelry metal on the horizon – palladium. As a platinum group metal, palladium offers customers a host of benefits that white gold and platinum can’t touch. Are customers ready for a white metal that is less expensive than platinum and hypoallergenic unlike white gold? Many jewelers and jewelry stores are banking on it.

Palladium’s steel-white appearance makes it an attractive jewelry alternative to white gold and platinum. However, palladium was difficult to cast with and had not been fit for jewelry casting until recently. Innovations in developing a castable palladium alloy produced 950 palladium, which is ideal for jewelry. It is expected that, within the coming months, consumers will begin to hear more about palladium and its benefits; and palladium could very well be the next revolution in jewelry. Much of this relies on the fact that palladium is in the platinum group of metals and shares many of the same attributes as platinum – high purity, good luster, and white appearance.

Palladium versus Platinum
Much of platinum’s cache is due to its purity. Jewelry cast using pure gold (i.e., 24K) is soft and subject to damage, which threatens the overall look and luster of the jewelry piece. To combat this, gold is commonly mixed with copper or silver to strengthen it. The concerns over gold’s softness are why gold jewelry is typically crafted using 14 or 18 karat gold. Palladium is attractive to consumers in the same way as platinum because it is a purer material that is not fabricated or man made.

Another benefit of palladium is that it is over 40% lighter than platinum, a characteristic of palladium that has jewelry designers excited. Weight is a consideration that is especially important in earrings as heavier metals and bigger designs can stretch the ear lobe and be too heavy to wear. Larger stones can be set in a palladium design and, because it is less dense, the piece won’t feel overly heavy to the wearer.

The biggest downside to platinum is its price. Often, consumers seeking that white-metal appearance had to settle for white gold or sterling silver because of platinum’s high price tag. Palladium is set to take a large share of the market because of its affordability. Palladium is less expensive than platinum and white gold – a trend that should continue for the near term.

Palladium versus White Gold
Why is palladium more desirable? Unfortunately, white gold jewelry is manufactured using alloys containing nickel and up to 10% of the population experiences an allergic reaction to contact with nickel. Palladium is hypoallergenic so there are not the allergy concerns that plague white gold.

Also, palladium is harder than white gold making it more durable and less likely to mar. Durability is an issue particularly when it comes to mountings. If a gem stone is set using mountings made with a softer metal, the likelihood that one of the prongs could fail and the stone could fall out is higher. Often jewelers will use a harder metal in a ring setting to combat this but with palladium the entire jewelry piece can be made with the same metal.

A Growing Market At this time refiners are working to provide 950 palladium to jewelry manufacturers and designers and many stores are set to educate consumers on palladium. All are expecting palladium to find a market as messages about its lower price and platinum-like characteristics are presented to consumers. The demand for palladium jewelry will dictate how quickly it is integrated into designer’s product lines and jewelry stores catalogs. Palladium will likely be used in the same jewelry categories as platinum, especially engagement rings and wedding jewelry.

In a metals shop the most common method for determining the karat of an alloy is with the use of a touchstone. It's an easy method and frequently used to determine the karat of gold.

The basic equipment needed for touchstone testing includes different acids, a touchstone, and a testing star. The most common touchstone acids are of 14, 18, and 22 karats. Each point of the star is made of a different purity of gold.

However, touchstone testing is not as precise as a chemical analysis done by an expert, which would indicate with greater precision the standard of the metal in parts per thousand.

Testing
First, rub the touchstone with the metal of unknown purity. Alongside this mark, rub the touchstone with an alloy of a known standard. Apply touchstone acid to the two marks and observe how they burn. If neither mark burns away then the standard of the metal is close to that of the known alloy.

For example, to determine whether a gold ring is 18 karats, first file down a place on the ring to eliminate the possibility that it is plated. Next, rub the touchstone with the filed edge. Right next to this mark make another mark with a metal that you know is 18-karat gold. Then put a drop of 18-karat touchstone acid on the two marks and watch to see if the first mark burns off. Burning indicates that the gold is inferior to 18 karats; if it doesn't burn, then the gold is equal or superior to 18 karats, but the exact standard is still unknown.

The touchstone acid method indicates with a certain imprecision that the metal is superior to the karat of the acid used because the gold didn't burn away. To know if he gold is of 22 karats repeat the above operation with an acid of 22 karats. If instead it burns away, repeat the test with an acid for 14 karats, and so on, until no burning occurs.

There are specific touchstone acids to test of silver content as well, but if we were to analyze them with 18-karat gold acid, the mark would turn light blue, reacting to the chloride in the silver.

Tahitian Black Pearls are fairly new to the realm of pearls. Tahitian Pearls hit the market in the 1970's, with a splash. They are unlike any other pearl. Their originality can have a dramatic effect on people. Most people are used to seeing the Akoya Pearl; relatively smaller than the Tahitian Pearl, and generally whiter. Tahitian Pearls are almost the complete opposite of Akoya Pearl. The pearls are larger and much more colorful. Tahitian pearls are the only naturally colored “black” pearl. All the others are “enhanced”.

Maybe the reason that Tahitian Black Pearls have this effect on people is their association with tropical beaches warm tropical nights and aqua blue water.

The Tahitian Pearls were originally marketed as “Black Pearls” or Tahitian Black Pearls; but, they are not black as akoya pearls are not white. However since this is the way that Tahitian Pearl Jewelry was originally introduced to the public; the name of Black Pearls has stayed. As you will see the Tahitian Black Pearl is not just black. They come in a range of colors greens, blues, grays and reddish browns.

The Tahitian “black” pearl comes from the black lipped oyster. Its Latin Name is Pinctada margaritifera cumingi. The inside or “mother of pearl” of this oyster are black. This species of mollusk is found from the Asia to California. A large oyster, it can grow to 8 inches; it is a long lived mollusk, reaching 30 years. The Tahitian Cultured Pearl is grown in French Polynesia. Tahiti is a part of French Polynesia.

With Tahitian Pearl Jewelry, one of the things we notice first is their high value. Tahitian Pearls have a much higher value than most other pearls. This is because of several reasons. Foremost is the cost of producing these beauties. They are grown in very remote area, and there are far fewer of them produced. Typically a Tahitian Pearl Necklace is approximately 10 to 15 times as expensive as a comparable Akoya Pearl Necklace.

The Tahitian Black Pearl is large. Most common are in the 8mm to 14mm. So the smallest Tahitian Pearl is as big as the biggest Akoya. Believe it or not the largest recorded Tahitian Pearl is just shy of 27mm, that's over 1 inch in diameter.

Color, color, color. The highest valued color is a dark green gray, with rose' overtones, called Peacock. You almost enter a food market when you talk about Tahitian Pearls. We have Auvergne, which is French for eggplant, a dark purple, and pistachio used to describe a yellowish green.

All the pearls available and sold in the market are all cultured pearls and grow naturally in oysters. We humans have no control over its growth but generally longer the period it takes to harvest, oysters tend to grow larger sizes. But its not the thumb rule. Their harvesting time varies from 2 to 5 years. Harvesters keep checking the oysters many times during its growth period. There are various types of pearls, Fresh water pearls, Akoya sea water pearls, South sea water pearls and Tahitian pearls.

Pearls are measured in millimeters thru diameters. Pearls come in various sizes generally from 3mm to 24mm but the most popular sizes are between 6mm to 8mm. Lower sizes does not mean they are always cheaper than the large ones because a very good quality small size pearl may command a higher price than the lower quality of 8mm or more. Sizes 6mm-7mm are generally preferred by young girls and are very popular. Sizes 7mm-8mm are equally popular in demand and are preferred choice by many working women and professionals alike.

Size 8mm or bigger usually are in higher price range and very good choice for career women and go also well with evening gears. But again, it all depends upon individual choice, taste, style and above all affordability. Size alone is never a sole factor when it comes to buying. The color, quality and the type of pearls such as Freshwater pearls, Japanese Akoya seawater pearls, Tahitian pearls or South Sea pearls also are other important considerations.

Historically considered the wedding gem, pearl jewelry is traditionally presented by the Father of the Bride or the Groom and symbolizes love, virtue, spirituality and prosperity. The tradition of giving pearls for weddings, dating back to around 1000 BC, is believed to originate from the Hindu God Krishna giving his daughter pearls on her wedding day. The association of pearls and weddings continued with the ancient Greeks, who believed that pearls would insure a blissful marriage. During the 14th and 15th Centuries, everyone, from the bride to all her male guests was adorned in pearls.

Today, pearls symbolize purity and innocence, and are considered to be the wedding gem, even more so than diamonds are. If you would like to see, a quick look at any bridal catalog or magazine will show photos of real and fake pearls adorning hats, gowns, gloves, veils, purses, and ring-bearer pillows. Pearls are the essential wedding gem, and now more and more men are wearing pearls, as they did before.

A few things to keep in mind when buying pearls for the wedding are:

- The brides pearl jewelry should all match. Such as earrings matching the type, color of her necklace. You can be sure that all who see her will be examining her attire on this special day.

- Regarding the gown, the jewelry should match the color of the pearls on the gown, rather than the color of the gown, and on the veil. It will be the pearls themselves that make the vision complete.

- If the bride would like to wear some heirloom such as a necklace, brooch or earrings that don’t match, then consider placing a note in the program, such as “…is wearing a brooch in honor of her grandmother”.

- A necklace on the bride should be at least one inch above the neckline so not to appear as if it is falling into the gown.

- These are guidelines only, and the bride should remember that this is her day and she has the right to wear whatever she wishes.

Pearls never go out of style - they're always a classy and traditional wardrobe accessory that will never disappoint you. But this year they are a "front and center" fashion statement! So with more people in the market for pearls now is a good time for some “pearl talk.”

The pearl has always been a rather prim and proper piece of jewelry - classic and seeped in tradition. Well, things they are a changing! The pearl is has had a very glamorous make over! Yes, the classic strand still exists, as it always will. But we warned we are seeing some vary daring looks from the pearl this season. Extra long lengths, tasseled multi strands, pearls with semi precious stone accents, pearls on gold or silver chains. The pearl has been transformed into a fun and fashionable accessory.

So if you're going to be in the market for pearls this year here is what you should know.

* The glow or radiance of a pearl is the most important quality. Avoid pearls that are chalky or dull, as they will be weak and may crack or peal.
* The surface of the pearl should be blemish free - no bumps or cracks. Inspect under a bright light. Baroque pearls are the exception to this rule - their charm is in their irregularities.
* Pearls are measured in millimeters. The larger the pearl the higher the cost. A 6mm pearl is going to be much less than a 12mm pearl.
* The least expensive pearls are the freshwaters, which mainly come from China. They come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. Average size is around 7 mm.
* The best way to care for your pearls is simply to wear them. The natural skin oils keep them moisturized. Do not put them on until you are done with your cosmetics. This includes hair, facial, and perfume. The residues from these products will ruin your pearls. Do not wear your pearls in the water - chlorinated and salt water will damage them. Polish with a soft cloth and never use jewelry cleaning products on your pearls.

Quality pearls are not cheap but they will last a lifetime. Freshwater pearls are becoming very affordable. Not all of us will be in the market for "Real Pearls" and lucky us there are plenty of options. Swarovski makes a crystal pearl that is of the finest quality and quite difficult to tell from a true pearl for a fraction of the cost and they are available in a variety of colors. There is an endless supply of imitation pearl or costume jewelry pearls on the market. These are offered in a wide variety of styles and colors. Great fun at affordable prices.

So you ask what's "In Style" this season? Well I'm glad you asked!

* Pearl rings get the green flag - from low settings to monster large solitaire pearls, they are all the rave. A pearl ring can go from romantic and simple to sleek and stunning.
* The Bib Necklace makes a very dramatic statement. A broad necklace that tapers towards the back just like a baby's bib [thus the name]. They range from extremely wide to as narrow as a ½". This style works great with a simple black dress or strapless neckline.
* The multi-strand necklace is ever so preppy. They range from 12" to 18" and pearls are usually small to medium. The object of these necklaces is for every pearl to be in perfect placement. Very versatile and fashionable.
* The opera length necklace simply never disappears from the fashion scene. They measure 36" or longer and they can be worn as a long single lean line, doubled up, tied in a knot, wherever the moment takes you. These long strands are terrific for dressing up a pair of jeans or semi casual look.
* The tassel necklace from the footloose and fancy free1920s has made a come back, and rightly so! Today tassels are often made from tiny seed pearls or irregular baroques. They range in length from short at 16" to navel length at 36". The tassel necklace swings and sways with your movement making it a must have for those night of dancing.
* This season for first time, we are seeing pearls mixed with colored gems such as amethyst, peridot, or topaz. They compliment each other nicely - pearls with their soft and subtle shades mixed with semi precious gems with their vibrant and bold color. Picture it - what a fashion statement!
* Pearls mixed with silver is also new this season. Long silver chain dangle earrings accented with pearls, or freshwater droplets set on silver.
* This season the pearl is all about the color. Pearls are available in many hues but this season the "hot spot" is "lavender" and the lavender family ranging from pale iris to plum.

If you already own a beautiful classic pearl necklace it's very easy to transform it into something from this season. Try adding a group of charms or pendants, fastening a vintage brooch or clip-on earring at the bottom. You could mix various lengths or sizes of pearls together or entwine a silver or gold chain. How about mixing your real pearls with your fake pearls? The options are as endless as your imagination.

Remember when you freshen your wardrobe for the spring, freshen your costume jewelry too and Make Your Fashion Statement!

Eastern cultures have prized the perfect beauty of a pearl for thousands of years, so there's no surprise that they play a big role in legend, mythology and astrology. Here is some of the lore associated with the pearl from the practitioners of Hindu.

Throughout history, some cultures have placed little or no value on pearls and have focused instead on luminescent mother-of-pearl that lined mollusk shells. Before the 1800's, Japanese shell divers who found pearls apparently didn't even bother to keep them. One legend states that at one time Polynesian children used pearls as marbles. But for the most part, they've been prized treasures.

Pearls in Religion
Historically, pearls have been abundant in the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Mannar, which is located between India and Sri Lanka. This geography is the reason that the Indian and Middle Eastern cultures most likely have been revering pearls longer than any others.

In Islamic thought, pearls represent perfection and completeness. The depth of the Middle East's affection for pearls is mentioned several times in the Koran. One of the most famous mentions is within its description of Paradise, which says:

"The stones are pearls and jacinths; the fruits of the trees are pearls and emeralds; and each person admitted to the delights of the celestial kingdom is provided with a tent of pearls, jacinths, and emeralds; is crowned with pearls of incomparable luster, and is attended by beautiful maidens resembling hidden pearls."

For Hindus, the pearl is one of the planetary gems, associated with the moon and second only to the diamond in regard. The Indian rulers considered the luminous gemstones symbols of love, union and purity. The Hindus, who spent a lot of time pondering where pearls came from, were convinced they formed in the brain and stomach of elephants. Hindu lore speaks of pearls as dewdrops that fell out of the night and into the sea. Ancient Indian legends say Vishnu plucked the first pearl from the depths of the ocean and gave it to his daughter Pandaia on her wedding day.

By the Middle Ages, pearls had become included among the most sacred of precious objects due to their identification with religious purity in Christianity. They adorned Bibles, icons, and religious artifacts. Early Christians described the Holy Grail as being embellished with pearls to give the holy water in the cup magical powers. These artifacts were frequently put on display during major religious holidays.

Pearl Superstitions
Pearls transmit the color orange. Orange rays have a cold effect, and can be used to treat the diseases relating to blood and bodily secretions that are caused by inflammation. Pearls reduce body heat to balance bodily fluids.

* Pearls symbolize tears. Depending on to whom you listen, this can be good or bad. Some old wives' tales say that giving pearls to a romantic interest is bad luck, because the tears imply eventual separation. Other tales indicate that a bride wearing pearls will keep her from crying during the wedding ceremony. Perhaps pearls are a great engagement gift! Ancient Indian warriors encrusted their swords with pearls to symbolize the sorrow and ultimate tears that a sword brings.
* Pearls ward off evil. Sailors, soldiers and those worried about danger often carried a pearl for protection. Even today, divers often wear pearls to keep them protected from sharks and other creatures of the deep.
* Fertility. Ever since Vishnu gave the first pearl to his daughter on her wedding day, this myth has persisted. Some people believe that if a woman sleeps with a pearl under her pillow that she will conceive. Pearls are still a common wedding gift in hopes that the bride will bear many children.
* Fire. The Chinese believed pearls came from dragons, so the gem is traditionally worn as protection against fire.

Pearl Types
When buying Pearls, the customer is presented with terminology they are not always familiar with. Akoya, Freshwater, Tahitian, South Sea... What do all these mean? In order to make the best decision when buying pearls, it is important to know the differences between these type of pearls and why some are more expensive than others. Listed here are the different types of Cultured Pearls and how they are cultured.

South Sea Pearls
South Sea Pearls are primarily cultured in the waters of Australia, the Philippines and Indonesia. Some will mistakenly include pearls found from the waters of Tahiti and French Polynesia and call them Black South Sea Pearls. The distinction between these two types of pearls are the oyster they are cultivated in. The South Sea Pearls are cultured in the silver or gold-lipped pearl oyster and the color of the South Sea Pearls are usually white or silver colored, but they can also come in shades of yellow or blue-gray with pink or green overtones.

The gold-lipped pearl oyster used to culture these pearls (Pinctada maxima) is the world's largest pearl mother and is considered by experts to produce the best pearls in the world. The sizes of the pearls produced range in size from 10 to 20 millimeters, though pearls larger than 16 millimeters are rare. Their rarity and exceptional sizes make them highly prized. These are some of the largest and most expensive pearls available.

Tahitian Pearls or Black South Sea Pearls
Sometimes referred to as Black South Sea Pearls, 'Tahitian pearls' are cultured in areas stretching from the Cook Islands, eastward through Tahiti to the Tuamotu Archipelago and the Gambier Islands in French Polynesia. The are grown in the black-lipped pearl oyster (Pinctada margaritifera) found in the atolls of these areas. The colors produced vary widely from purple, green, black and shades from gray to cream and even white. The rarest and highly sought after color is "peacock green" - the greenish black color of a peacock feather.

Black Tahitian pearls are generally smaller than the White South Sea Pearls ranging in size from 7 to 15 millimeters.

Akoya or Japanese Pearls
Probably the most well known name of a pearl type from the Akoya oyster (Pinctada fucata martensil). Most akoya pearls are still produced in Japan but now some are also grown on an increasing scale in China and India. The akoya pearl oyster measures only six to nine centimeters across - less than half the size of Australia's silver-lipped pearl oyster. Smaller nuclei are implanted so the resulting pearls range from 2 to 10 millimeters in diameter.

Considered the classic amongst cultured pearls, Akoya Pearls are primarily round or oval in shape and are produced in white and cream shades with silver or pink overtones.

Freshwater Pearls
Freshwater Pearls are small, sometimes irregularly shaped pearls that are grown in various species of freshwater mussel. The colors range from pink, gray or black, bronze, lavender, to white.

Natural freshwater pearls occur in mussels for the same reason that saltwater pearls occur in oysters. Foreign material, usually a sharp object or parasite, enters a mussel and cannot be expelled. To reduce irritation, the mollusk coats the intruder with the same secretion it uses for shell-building, nacre.

To culture freshwater pearls, the shell of the mussels are slightly opened, small slits are cut into the mantle tissue and small pieces of live tissue from another mussel is inserted into those slits. The shape of the nucleus and its position in the mussel determines the shape of the cultured pearl. The shapes recovered include rounds, pears, eggs, drops, buttons, dome, and baroques. Most cultured freshwater pearls are composed entirely of nacre which leads to their high luster and quality.

The pearls are nursed for up to three years to achieve their luster and quality, a distinct trademark of our Cultured pearls and Freshwater pearls.