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Saturday, July 22, 2006

The Sticky Second Hand

The wiggling quartz watch second hand -- this is one of the most common problems jewelers face when changing watch batteries. It is usually is caused by an obstruction in the gears of the watch. Most of the time we discover this only after we have replaced the battery. There in lays the problem.

NO OPEN POLICY;
Before we get to that particular problem, we need to discuss whether or not you should open the watch to check the battery in the first place. There is a new product you need to know about. It is a pulse tester. A Pulse Tester senses the electronic pluses that a quartz watch makes when the battery is good enough to make the watch run. When using this, the jeweler has no need to open the watch to check the battery.

All you need to do is place the watch on the device and if the light flashes you know the battery is good. This eliminates the need to open the watch and prevents you from replacing the battery in a watch that has problems other than the battery. Let's say that the watch is running slow or stopping. Most of the time this will have nothing to do with the battery. This device is a real time saver and goes a long way to limit the liability risk we face when replacing a battery.

THE ACCELERATOR
Now let's say that you have determined a battery is needed, and after replacing it the second hand only wiggles. This is when an accelerator comes in handy. Place the watch on the accelerator. When activated, the device causes the watch's hands to spin rapidly. In most cases, this will correct the wiggling second hand.

These devices are called the Horotech Pulse and Turbo and cost approximately $50 each. They can be ordered from most good watch material houses.

If the hands still only wiggle after using the Turbo, then the watch is in need of a movement repair or replacement.

Friday, July 21, 2006

Silver Pocket Watch Cases and Their Development

The American Railroad was the second most influential contribution to the advancement of our early nation. Our county's founding papers were first. The Railroad linked the industrialized east with the growing west.

The keeping of time went hand and glove with the railroad. For safety reasons it was vital to know when a heavy loaded and fast moving train was to be on a certain stretch of track. The American Waltham pocket watch and the telegraph working together brought the standard of time, that made rail transportation safer and dependable.

Soon as American watch factories perfected their manufacturing and marketing process, these prized mechanical wonders were attainable to the commoner and railroad man alike. While their protective gold cases were beautiful works of art, gold was soft and expensive. Coin silver though beautiful and more affordable than gold, was also sometimes too soft for the rugged demands placed on a pocket watch case. An alloy was developed specifically to meet the needs of the American pocket watch case that answer the question of durably and affordability. This combination of 45% nickel, 54% copper and 1% manganese was called silveroid, silverore, silverode or silverine. It was easy to polish, very hard and looked just like coin silver.

The early American pocket watch is prized for it's beauty and function. These watches bring very high prices today, and an American pocket watch in great condition with a coin silver case is considered rare and collectable.

During lean economic times, silver was substituted for the very affordable silveroid, yet rightfully, the remaining silver cased American pocket watches will always hold their collectability and high value.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

A Range for Rings

Just the thought of a ring is enough to quicken a woman's heart and turn a man's thoughts to romance. Unlike a pair of earrings, a necklace, or even a bracelet, a ring often has the most powerful significance and sentimental value of any jewelry item.

Rings have had power over people throughout history, from Cleopatra to Princess Diana. From the Hindus and the Greeks to the Ancient Incas and Native Americans, the influence of rings has been dramatic. Rings have been used to confer authority, seal pacts, unite people, heal sickness, prevent ill luck, foretell the future and announce status. They have been worn in memory of loved ones, and worn to praise men and God. Can a simple pair of diamond stud earrings ever have that effect?

And don't assume that diamonds have always been a girl's best friend. Over the centuries, rings have been adorned with every gem humans have been able to tear out of the earth: Amber and chalcedony were favored in Ancient Rome; the Orient delighted in jade, while turquoise was king in Persia.

It is said that the wearing of rings probably grew out of the custom in the ancient world of wearing cylindrical seals around the neck; over time, they were modified to fit around the finger instead (which certainly sounds much more comfortable).

Rings haven't been used simply as wedding bands through history. In fact, many different types of rings, with different uses and purposes, have been popular over the centuries. There have been watch or dial rings that allowed you to keep track of all the time you wasted during the day; mirror rings to check your appearance and help you make a good impression; smoke rings with attachments for your cigarette; swivel rings that could be turned on your finger to hide a seal or signet; surprise rings that disguised a mythical or astrological symbol; chatelaine rings linked together to form a chain; curative rings to bring you back to health; memorial rings to commemorate those beyond health; pacifier rings to give an infant something to suck on, and even poison rings to...well, you get the idea.

The Signet Ring
If you had a signet ring-a ring with a carving on it so you could stamp an image onto another surface - in the ancient world, it would be the absolute last thing you would want to part with. It was more important than the cell phone or palm pilot of today! Kings used them to pass down their power. Merchants had the emblems of their trade carved on them and used them to seal contracts. Signet rings were as good as a signature, and stealing one of them was a serious offense. The mark on a signet ring could enhance one's reputation or condemn one to death, as those who wore rings with the impression of Brutus and Cassius discovered after Julius Caesar's assassination.

Many signet rings had mottoes cut on them, while royal signet rings were lavishly decorated with precious metal, gems and rich enamel. Signet rings remained popular through the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries, customarily engraved upon gold and enhanced by carnelians, chalcedonies, lapis lazuli or bloodstones.

Did you know that...

* Women of rank in the Middle Ages wore signet rings as symbols of prestige?
* One of the most famous signet rings belonged to Michelangelo, which boasted a carving of a segment of the Sistine Chapel.
* Lovers had romantic images engraved on their signet rings?
* Some images minted on ancient coins were reproductions of the seals of city magistrates?
* To dream of a signet ring boded well or ill, depending on the nature of the dream?

The Religious Ring
Rings have been a part of religion in many cultures throughout history. Rome's high priests, for instance, wore hollow rings to identify themselves as those exempt from the hard labor of daily life.

When Christianity arrived on the scene, religious rings became hallmarks of the faith. These rings were often decorated with Biblical scenes, episodes from the Life of Jesus, and even creatures such as fish, which were symbolically tied to Christianity.

Papal rings are probably the most famous religious rings in the world today. They are so important that an ecclesiastical signet ring is broken upon the death of the Pope who wore it! The Fisherman's Ring, a massive and ornate gold seal ring, is made for each succeeding Pope.

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

How to Clean Silver with Common Kitchen Items

Although it is very common for people to buy chemical silver tarnish removers and jewelers cloths to polish silver jewelry to a sparkling shine, it is possible to achieve similar results with just a few inexpensive items found in almost every kitchen. With a glass bowl, some baking soda, some aluminum foil and boiling water, you can have your silver shining again in less than 20 minutes.

The following are the simple steps to shiny silver jewelry:

1. To begin, place a layer of aluminum foil on the bottom of a glass bowl or container.
2. Place the silver item on top of the foil.
3. Spread out a large spoonful of baking soda over top of the jewelry and foil.
4. Boil water.
5. Pour boiling hot water into the bowl until it covers both the foil and your silver item.
6. Wait 10 – 15 minutes.
7. Remove your item and rinse in cold water.
8. Allow your jewelry to dry without using a towel, as this can leave tiny scratches that cause silver to lose its luster.
9. Enjoy your shiny jewelry.

This method of cleaning silver jewelry has been used by many for a long time. This method is also good for those with sensitive skin that may react to the chemicals found in silver polish.

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Egyptian Handmade Silver

Silver is a metallic chemical element, known from the earliest times. According to legends, Gold was considered to be the skin of the ancient Egyptian gods, but their bones were thought to be of silver. Ancient Egyptians were able to obtain gold and even electrum, but it is believed that silver was not known to them for a long time. Electrum is a gold-silver alloy which occurred naturally. It had silver contents somewhat higher than twenty percent and its color was pale amber. It was worked and used similarly to gold.

When silver was finally introduced into Egypt, it probably was more valuable than gold for it was rarer and more expensive. During the Old Kingdom, items of silver were listed above those of any other known metal. By the Middle Kingdom, silver may probably have been considered less valuable than gold. By this time, there was perhaps a much better supply of the metal. By the 18th dynasty silver and copper had been established as a mostly abstract means of exchange, with silver being worth half its weight in gold and 100 times its weight in copper. Starting the New Kingdom onwards, there was a readily available supply of silver. It was used in making beautiful jewelry and artifacts. Beaten into sheets, silver was also used to plate copper and other materials, especially mirror surfaces.

The tools smiths employed to shape and decorate these ornaments are few and surprisingly simple-basically a hammer and anvil, along with assorted pliers, mallets, scribers, and files; however, the techniques they used are varied and sophisticated-hammering and casting, fusing and soldering, embossing and repoussé, wire and chain-making, filigree and granulation.

Combining these techniques, Middle Eastern jewelry makers developed an extensive repertoire of distinctive, recurring design elements.

Silver jewelry once had many functions for the women who wore it. In the face of hardship and insecurity, jewelry provided a woman a reserve of wealth and power. In a region that gave rise to three great faiths, religious symbols and inscriptions engraved on silver, pendants gave women comfort and solace. Amuletic jewelry warded off evil and protected a woman from misfortune.

Nowadays, some people consider silver as a kind of emperor of the antique world, serenely shining in confidence over such things as clocks, porcelain, pictures and even furniture.

Monday, July 17, 2006

Silver Knowledge

History
Silver is one of the first metals to be used by humans. It may have been the first metal smelted from ore. The art of silver working dates back to the ancient Byzantine, Phoenician and Egyptian empires, where silver was forged into domestic utensils, jewelry, buttons, weapons, horse trappings, boxes, and other articles.

Unfortunately, silver's high utility meant that items were often melted down and re-forged into new items. Consequently, much ancient and early European silverwork has been lost forever. The silver tradition was carried over to colonial America, where it co-existed with the centuries-old hand-hammered craft traditions of the North and South American natives

The mines in Mexico and Peru are still the highest-producing ones in the world, and the methods of silver jewelry making among native peoples remains largely unchanged today. The niche of silver making in Western society has been a bit more dynamic. Silver's value as a jewelry and utensil metal made it an early target for ambitious miners, and the discovery of the Comstock Lode in Nevada in 1859 created a silver rush that rivaled the Gold Rush.

In recent years, silver has lost much of its value as a reserve metal and a traded commodity. However, its low price often means it acts as a leading metal in jewelry fashion - allowing silver craftsmen freedom to experiment with new and innovative designs, which are later duplicated in more expensive gold and platinum, once the "style" is safely established.

Silver is popular among younger people attempting a less-formal look in their accessorizing, and among those who simply find gold and platinum too old-world and ostentatious.

Finish
Silver is also the brightest reflector of any metal (except for liquid mercury) and can be polished to a high sheen that even platinum can't achieve. In fact, the chemical symbol for silver, Ag, is derived from the Latin, argentum, meaning "white and shining."

The finish on silver can be high polished, matte or brushed (rubbed with an abrasive), satin (a smoother matte), sandblasted (rough matte), oxidized (chemically blackened), or antiqued (chemically "aged"). Silver is said to have a "patina," a worn-looking finish that is achieved through frequent use and handling, and is particular to the wearer's skin chemistry.

Purity
In its pure form silver is almost as soft as gold, and therefore is usually alloyed with copper for strength. Karatage is not marked because, legally, anything called "silver" or "sterling silver" is 92.5% pure.

Sometimes silver from south of the border is designated "Mexican silver," which runs anywhere from 90% to 99% pure. Purity is really not something to worry about with silver.

Alloys
Fine Silver in its natural state, 999/1000 pure, is too soft an element for practical jewelry. To make it workable, an alloy such as copper is added. Here are the main silver alloys:

Sterling Silver: A mixture of 92.5 % pure silver (925 parts) and 7.5 % metal alloy.
Silver Plating: Also known as silver plated or silver coated. A base metal, usually nickel silver or brass, is coated with a layer of pure silver by a process called electroplating.
Vermeil: Sterling silver electroplated with at least 100 millionths of an inch of karat gold
German Silver or Nickel Silver: A silver-white alloy consisting of copper, zinc and nickel.
Coin Silver: 90% (900 parts) pure silver and 10% (100 parts) metal alloy. A process of melting down coins done in the 19th century, and mostly discarded today.

Buying Silver Jewelry
Silver is the queen of metals: gleaming and elegant, cool to the eye, sensuous to the touch. Silver jewelry is a classic gift that remains close to a woman's heart. More than merely decorative, it often carries with it the appeal of a tender sentiment or a lovely memory. And it possesses a sophistication that every woman understands.

However, in selecting silver jewelry for herself, a woman should not forget that men place a high value on silver themselves. For that special man the perfect gift in silver might be a handsome pair of sterling silver cuff links, a tie bar, an I.D. bracelet, or even a signet ring. For a man, silver is a gift of distinction.

Make sure there are no visible blemishes or imperfections on the piece. Check to make certain that fasteners, clasps and catches work properly and are secure. Check pin backs and earring posts for strength and durability. Lay silver chains flat to make certain their links don't kink or bend.

Care
Acquiring fine silver is one thing. Keeping it bright and beautiful is another. However, there's no mystery to caring for your fine silver jewelry. Just follow these tips:

Store your silver in a cool, dry place that is preferably airtight, to avoid oxidation. Avoid direct overexposure to artificial light or sunlight for long periods. Don't store directly on wood, which often contains acids that can affect silver's surface.

Store items in a tarnish-proof cloth, or in drawers with tarnish-resistant strips. Store each item individually, either in its own soft pouch or in a separate compartment of your jewelry box. Do not store silver loose in drawers; scratches will occur if you toss your jewelry into a compartment or allow pieces to rub against each other.

If a piece of silver jewelry becomes tarnished, use a paste, liquid polish or a treated polishing cloth to restore its original luster. Never put rubber bands or plastic directly against the surface of your silver.

Sunday, July 16, 2006

The Rise of Online Silver Jewelry Purchasing by Men

The men's silver jewelry market has taken off in the past few years with men in the mainstream comfortably buying sterling adornments historically worn by Hollywood stars and athletes. From sterling silver pendants to chunky link necklaces and bracelets, silver jewelry for men has come of age since the days when cufflinks were the only jewelry adornment offered in the men's accessory department.

With the successful introduction of international brands such as the UK's Hot Diamonds into the United States market, American men have given themselves permission to have fun with attractive necklaces, bangles and heavy link chains for the wrist, as well as an endless variety of sterling silver rings, key holders and cufflinks. Hot Diamonds was one of the first jewelers for men and women to enhance sterling silver with small round diamonds.

Another distinctive feature of the Hot Diamonds Collection is the very clean, contemporary design of the jewelry. For instance, the classic heavy link bracelet is brought up-to-date with a toggle clasp sporting diamonds on each end of the bar fastener. Patterns are repeated in cufflink, pendant, key ring and ring, offering attractive sets to give as gifts, as well as to wear.

Men also do not have to fuss about keeping their Hot Diamonds jewelry clean since every piece is given a bath of rhodium, making them tarnish-free.

World renowned Canadian jeweler, John Hardy, who lives and creates his line in Bali, will be introducing his first collection of men's jewelry this fall called "Black Ice," combining sterling silver with black sapphires.

Fred Bennett brings a vast array of sterling silver pieces for men into the market with his 2004 collection. With elegant silver dotted with diamonds, oxidized silver that produces bold stripes of black, sleek satin finish pieces or even a series of "scratched" finish designs, the Fred Bennett line offers men an infinite variety of ways to wear silver. Even black agate, tiger's eye, enamel and resin are worked with silver to create masculine and bold patterns in the jewelry.

Very popular is the combination of highly polished sterling silver with matte-finished sterling, giving each piece texture and interest. Men are enjoying a way to bring individuality and style into their wardrobe without spending a fortune. Not only is sterling silver affordable, but it looks extremely fashionable with blacks, grays and the darker colors so many "mainstream men" choose to wear.

Men purchased $5 billion worth of jewelry last year, or 12 per cent of all jewelry sold. Much of that jewelry was purchased as gifts for wives and girlfriends. That is quickly changing as men are now on the lookout for their own personal jewelry and sterling silver is topping the charts as the metal of choice.